John Shell: The Legendary Kentuckian

John Shell, often referred to as “Uncle John,” is a legendary figure in Kentucky history. He is said to have been born on September 2, 1788, in Warren County, Tennessee or Clay County, Kentucky (depending on which source you believe), he lived to be one of the oldest people in the United States, claiming to have lived to the ripe old age of 134 years. His long life and the stories surrounding it have made him a captivating figure in the folklore of Appalachia. Neither his birthdate nor his birthplace have ever been conclusively proven.

Early Life

John Shell’s early years were spent in the rugged, mountainous terrain of Appalachia, a region known for its isolation and self-reliant communities. The exact details of his early life are somewhat murky, as records from that time are sparse, and much of what we know comes from oral histories and Shell’s own accounts. He once claimed in an interview that his earliest recollection was “the news coming over the mountains that the father of our country had died.”- which would have been in reference to George Washington, who passed away in 1799.

As a young man, Shell was known for his robust health, hard work, and skills as a woodsman and farmer. He married Elizabeth Chappell in 1844, and together they raised a large family. The Shell family was typical of the time, relying on farming, hunting, and gathering to sustain themselves.

A Centenarian Claims Super-Centenarian Status

John Shell’s fame began to spread in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when he was reportedly over 100 years old and still leading an active life. Shell’s longevity was documented in various newspapers and magazines, and his age became a topic of fascination. By the early 1900s, he was widely recognized as one of the oldest living people in the United States, with claims that he had surpassed the age of 130.

One of the most significant moments in John Shell’s life came in 1919 when he was featured in “The Saturday Evening Post.” The article, written by Lucille J. Crittenden, brought national attention to Shell’s extraordinary age and lifestyle. The piece described Shell as a vigorous man who, despite his advanced years, still chopped wood, tended to his farm, and enjoyed walking in the mountains.

The Shell Homeplace

The Shell homeplace, located in Leslie County, Kentucky, became a popular site for visitors eager to meet the legendary centenarian. People traveled from all over the country to see if the stories of his longevity were true. Many visitors were struck by Shell’s vitality and sharp mind, noting that he did not seem as old as his claimed age would suggest.

The homeplace itself was a testament to Appalachian ingenuity and self-sufficiency. The Shell family lived in a log cabin that John had built himself, surrounded by gardens and fields that provided much of their food. The property also featured various outbuildings, including a blacksmith shop and a smokehouse, reflecting the skills and resources necessary for survival in the mountains.

Skepticism and Legend

While many people were fascinated by Shell’s claims of extreme old age, there were also skeptics. Birth records from the late 18th century were often unreliable or non-existent, making it difficult to verify Shell’s age definitively. Some historians and genealogists have suggested that Shell’s true age may have been exaggerated, either through honest error or deliberate embellishment. Many speculate that his actual birth year would have been between 1805-1810.

Despite the skepticism, John Shell remained a beloved figure in Kentucky folklore. His story encapsulates the rugged individualism and resilience of the Appalachian people. Whether he was truly 134 years old or not, Shell’s life was marked by hard work, self-reliance, and a deep connection to the land.

Legacy

John Shell passed away on July 5, 1922. By then, he had become a symbol of longevity and the enduring spirit of the Appalachian people. His life story continues to be celebrated in Kentucky, with various landmarks and events commemorating his legacy.

In modern times, the legend of John Shell serves as a reminder of the rich oral traditions and cultural heritage of Appalachia. His story is told and retold, blending fact and folklore in a way that keeps his memory alive. The exact truth of his age may never be known, but John Shell’s place in the annals of Appalachian history is secure. His life is a testament to the enduring fascination with longevity and the human capacity to thrive in even the most challenging environments.

The Story Behind State Street in Bristol, Virginia/Tennessee

Bristol is a unique city, famously straddling the state line between Virginia and Tennessee. The boundary between the two states runs right down the middle of State Street, making this thoroughfare a central feature of the city’s identity and history. State Street is more than just a road; it symbolizes the unity and division of two states and holds a rich tapestry of cultural, historical, and musical significance.

A Tale of Two Cities

Bristol is actually two cities: Bristol, Virginia, and Bristol, Tennessee. The two cities operate independently, each with its own government, schools, and services. However, they share a common heritage and history, deeply intertwined by geography and community. State Street is the physical manifestation of this dual identity, with one side of the street in Virginia and the other in Tennessee.

The Early Years

Bristol’s origins date back to the early 19th century. The area that would become Bristol was originally part of a vast wilderness explored by pioneers. In 1852, a notable event set the stage for Bristol’s development: the construction of the Virginia and Tennessee Railroad. Joseph R. Anderson, a businessman and entrepreneur, saw potential in the area and founded the town of Bristol, Tennessee. Soon after, in 1856, another town, Goodson (later renamed Bristol, Virginia), was established on the Virginia side.

State Street naturally became the central artery connecting the two towns. Its placement along the state line made it a unique feature, drawing residents and businesses to settle along its path. The towns grew, largely due to the railroad, which brought commerce and travelers to the area.

State Street: The Heart of Bristol

As Bristol developed, State Street emerged as the main commercial and social hub. The street was lined with businesses, shops, and theaters, becoming a bustling center of activity. The architecture along State Street reflects the evolution of the city, with buildings dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, showcasing styles from Victorian to Art Deco.

State Street also played a crucial role during significant historical events. During the Civil War, the street witnessed the movement of troops and supplies, given its strategic location along the railroad. Post-war, the street became a symbol of recovery and growth as the community rebuilt and prospered.

The Birthplace of Country Music

One of the most significant chapters in State Street’s history is its association with country music. In 1927, the Bristol Sessions, often referred to as the “Big Bang of Country Music,” were recorded here. Talent scout Ralph Peer of the Victor Talking Machine Company set up a temporary studio on State Street and recorded local musicians, including the Carter Family and Jimmie Rodgers. These recordings are considered seminal in the development of country music, earning Bristol the title of the “Birthplace of Country Music.”

Today, the Birthplace of Country Music Museum, located near State Street, celebrates this rich musical heritage. The museum preserves and promotes the legacy of the Bristol Sessions and the cultural impact of country music.

A Street of Festivals and Celebrations

State Street is not only a historical landmark but also a venue for numerous festivals and events that celebrate the community’s heritage and culture. The annual Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion is a three-day music festival that draws thousands of visitors to State Street. This event features a diverse lineup of artists, paying homage to the city’s musical roots and bringing together people from both sides of the state line.

Throughout the year, State Street hosts parades, farmers’ markets, and community gatherings, reinforcing its role as the heart of the city. These events highlight the unique blend of Virginian and Tennessean cultures, fostering a sense of unity and shared identity among residents.

Modern-Day State Street

Today, State Street continues to be a vibrant and dynamic part of Bristol. The street is lined with an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, and businesses, attracting locals and tourists alike. Walking down State Street, one can experience the charm of historic buildings alongside modern amenities, a testament to the city’s ability to preserve its heritage while embracing the future.

The iconic sign that spans State Street at the intersection of State and Volunteer Parkway/Euclid Avenue reads, “Bristol: A Good Place to Live,” symbolizing the pride and sense of community that defines the city. This sign has become a beloved landmark, representing the spirit of Bristol and the unique bond between its two halves.

Conclusion

State Street in Bristol, Virginia/Tennessee, is more than just a road; it is a living narrative of a community that thrives on its unique duality. From its early days as a railroad town to its pivotal role in the birth of country music, State Street encapsulates the rich history and vibrant culture of Bristol. It stands as a testament to the power of unity and the shared heritage of two cities, making it a cherished landmark in the Appalachian region.

“Copperhead Road” by Steve Earle: A Song of Rebellion and Tradition

“Copperhead Road,” written and performed by Steve Earle, is a song that captures the rugged spirit and tumultuous history of the Appalachian region. Released in 1988 as the title track of Earle’s third studio album, “Copperhead Road” has become an anthem of rebellion and resilience, resonating deeply with listeners through its vivid storytelling and gritty sound.

The Song’s Narrative

The song unfolds in three distinct verses, each chronicling the life of a different member of the Pettimore family. The narrative spans three generations, painting a picture of a family caught in a cycle of illicit activities, reflective of the struggles and defiance that characterize much of Appalachian history.

1. First Generation: The song begins with the story of John Lee Pettimore, the protagonist’s grandfather, who was a moonshiner during Prohibition. Earle describes how John Lee ran illegal whiskey along Copperhead Road, a rural backroad notorious for its moonshine operations. The verse captures the danger and thrill of evading law enforcement, illustrating the lengths to which people went to survive during hard times.
2. Second Generation: The narrative then shifts to John Lee Pettimore’s son, who inherited the moonshining business. However, his life is cut short when federal agents discover and destroy his still, a fate not uncommon for many moonshiners during the crackdown on illegal distilleries.
3. Third Generation: The final verse tells the story of John Lee Pettimore III, a Vietnam War veteran. Returning home disillusioned and haunted by his experiences, he decides to grow marijuana in place of moonshine, continuing the family’s tradition of illicit activity. The song concludes with a sense of defiance, as the protagonist rigs his property with land mines to protect his new crop from the authorities.

The chorus, with its iconic line “You better stay away from Copperhead Road,” serves as a stark warning and a testament to the enduring legacy of rebellion and resistance in the Appalachian Mountains.

The Real Community Behind the Song

While “Copperhead Road” is a fictional story, it is deeply rooted in the real culture and history of the Appalachian region, particularly in parts of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia. The song reflects the following aspects of this community:

1. Moonshining Heritage: Moonshining has a long history in Appalachia, dating back to the 18th century. The practice of distilling homemade liquor became widespread due to the isolation of the region and the economic necessity faced by its inhabitants. The rugged terrain and dense forests provided cover for these illegal operations, making moonshining a viable way of life for many families.
2. Prohibition and Federal Crackdowns: During Prohibition (1920-1933), moonshining flourished as legal alcohol production was banned. However, the subsequent crackdown by federal agents, known as “revenuers,” brought violence and tension to the region. The stories of moonshiners evading capture and sometimes facing fatal confrontations with law enforcement are a significant part of Appalachian folklore.
3. Vietnam War Impact: The Vietnam War had a profound impact on rural America, including the Appalachian region. Many young men from these communities were drafted and sent to fight in a distant, controversial conflict. Their return home was often fraught with difficulties, including reintegration into civilian life and coping with the psychological scars of war. The shift from moonshining to marijuana cultivation in the song symbolizes the changes and continuity in illegal enterprises as a means of survival.
4. Cultural Resilience: The Appalachian people are known for their resilience and independence. The song’s depiction of the Pettimore family’s determination to resist authority and continue their way of life, despite the risks, mirrors the real-life spirit of many Appalachian communities. This resilience is celebrated in the song and resonates with listeners who appreciate the strength and tenacity of these mountain folk.

Conclusion

“Copperhead Road” by Steve Earle is more than just a song; it is a powerful narrative that encapsulates the spirit of Appalachia. Through its vivid storytelling and raw, energetic sound, the song pays homage to the region’s history of moonshining, the impact of war, and the enduring resilience of its people. While the tale of the Pettimore family is fictional, it draws heavily on the real-life experiences and cultural heritage of the Appalachian community, making it a timeless anthem of rebellion and survival.

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project: Engineering Marvel and Community Transformation

Nestled in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains, Pikeville, Kentucky, is a town that proudly showcases a remarkable feat of engineering and urban planning: the Pikeville Cut-Through Project. This ambitious project, often heralded as one of the largest earth-moving endeavors in the Western Hemisphere, has not only transformed the town’s landscape but also revitalized its economy and infrastructure.

The Need for Change

Before the Cut-Through Project, Pikeville faced significant challenges that hindered its growth and development. The Levisa Fork of the Big Sandy River meandered through the town, causing frequent and devastating floods. The river’s serpentine path, coupled with the town’s location in a narrow valley, also limited space for expansion and posed ongoing risks to residents and businesses. The main rail line and U.S. Route 23 ran through the town, creating bottlenecks and hampering traffic flow.

Recognizing the urgent need for a solution, Dr. William Hambley, then mayor of Pikeville, envisioned an ambitious plan to relocate the river, the railroad, and the highway, effectively cutting through the mountain to create new space for the town’s growth. This vision, conceived in the late 1960s, would eventually lead to the groundbreaking Pikeville Cut-Through Project.

The Scope and Execution

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project officially commenced in November 1973. The monumental task involved the excavation of approximately 18 million cubic yards of earth and rock to create a three-quarter-mile-long cut through Peach Orchard Mountain. The project aimed to:

1. Divert the Levisa Fork River: The river was redirected through the cut, mitigating the flood risk and reclaiming valuable land for development.
2. Relocate the Railroad: The rail line was moved to run through the new cut, freeing the town from the disruptive presence of trains passing through its center.
3. Construct a New Highway: U.S. Route 23 was rerouted through the cut, alleviating traffic congestion and improving access to Pikeville.

The engineering challenges were immense, requiring careful planning and coordination. Blasting through solid rock, managing water flow, and ensuring the stability of the newly created slopes were critical components of the project. Despite these challenges, the project proceeded with remarkable efficiency, driven by the determination and collaboration of engineers, construction workers, and local leaders.

The Impact on Pikeville

Completed in 1987, the Pikeville Cut-Through Project fundamentally changed the town’s geography and opened up new possibilities for its future. The benefits of the project were multifaceted:

1. Flood Control: By diverting the river, the project effectively ended the cycle of destructive floods that had plagued Pikeville for decades. This not only protected existing properties but also made additional land available for development.
2. Economic Growth: With new land for expansion and improved transportation infrastructure, Pikeville experienced a surge in economic activity. Businesses thrived, and new opportunities emerged for commercial and residential development.
3. Improved Transportation: The relocation of the railroad and highway significantly improved traffic flow, making Pikeville more accessible and enhancing its appeal as a regional hub.
4. Enhanced Quality of Life: The project created new recreational areas, including parks and trails, fostering a greater sense of community and improving the overall quality of life for residents.

A Lasting Legacy

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project stands as a testament to human ingenuity and the power of visionary leadership. It has been widely recognized as one of the most significant civil engineering achievements in the United States. The project not only solved pressing environmental and logistical challenges but also laid the groundwork for Pikeville’s continued growth and prosperity.

Today, visitors to Pikeville can witness the scale of the Cut-Through by visiting overlooks and viewing areas that provide stunning vistas of the transformed landscape. The project is a source of pride for the community, symbolizing resilience, innovation, and the enduring spirit of the Appalachian people.

Conclusion

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project is more than just an engineering marvel; it is a story of transformation and hope. By reimagining the possibilities of their environment, the people of Pikeville turned a vision into reality, overcoming natural and logistical barriers to create a brighter future. The project continues to inspire and serve as a model for communities facing similar challenges, demonstrating that with determination and ingenuity, even the most daunting obstacles can be overcome.

You can watch a video from the overlook showing how the city looks these days here:

The Brookside Coal Strike: A Defining Moment in Harlan County, Kentucky

In the early 1970s, the rolling hills and coal-rich valleys of Harlan County, Kentucky, became the stage for a dramatic and pivotal labor struggle that would capture the nation’s attention. The Brookside Coal Strike, a fierce and often violent confrontation between miners and the Eastover Mining Company (a subsidiary of Duke Energy), highlighted the ongoing fight for workers’ rights, fair wages, and safe working conditions. Let’s take a closer look at this crucial chapter in labor history.

The Setting: Harlan County

Harlan County, nestled in the Appalachian Mountains, had long been synonymous with coal mining. The region’s rich coal seams attracted thousands of workers who labored under harsh and often dangerous conditions. For many families, mining was not just a job but a way of life, passed down through generations. However, this way of life came with significant hardships, including low wages, unsafe working conditions, and little job security.

The Spark: Contract Negotiations

The Brookside Mine, owned by the Eastover Mining Company, became the epicenter of the conflict in 1973. The miners, represented by the United Mine Workers of America (UMWA), were fighting for a new contract that would ensure better wages, improved safety standards, and greater job security. When negotiations stalled and Eastover refused to recognize the union, the miners voted to strike.

The Struggle: A Fight for Justice

The Brookside Strike was characterized by its intensity and the high stakes for both sides. Striking miners and their families faced immense challenges, including financial hardship, intimidation, and violence. Picket lines were established, and tensions quickly escalated as Eastover brought in replacement workers and sought to break the strike. The miners, determined to stand their ground, were supported by the broader community and labor activists from across the country.

Key Figures and Events

One of the most prominent figures in the strike was Florence Reece, a local activist and the wife of a union organizer. She became an enduring symbol of the labor movement, particularly through her song “Which Side Are You On?” which became an anthem for the striking miners. The song, originally written during an earlier Harlan County conflict in the 1930s, resonated deeply with the community and rallying support for the strike.

The conflict also saw tragic events, including violent clashes between miners and strikebreakers, resulting in injuries and fatalities. The strife reached a critical point when a gun battle erupted, leading to the death of miner Lawrence Jones, a tragedy that underscored the lethal seriousness of the struggle.

The Role of Media and Documentary

The Brookside Strike gained national attention through the work of filmmaker Barbara Kopple, who documented the conflict in her 1976 Oscar-winning film, “Harlan County, USA.” The documentary brought the miners’ plight into the living rooms of America, showcasing their resilience and the harsh realities of life in Harlan County. Kopple’s work was instrumental in galvanizing public support for the miners and highlighting the broader issues of labor rights and corporate power.

The Resolution and Legacy

The Brookside Strike officially ended in 1974 when Eastover Mining Company finally agreed to a contract recognizing the UMWA and addressing many of the miners’ demands. The resolution marked a significant victory for the labor movement, but the struggle left deep scars on the community. The Brookside Coal Strike of the 1970s remains a defining moment in the history of labor rights in the United States.

Surprisingly, these days there’s not a single working miner who is a member of the UMWA. It is quite a different time from the days of the Brookside Strike.

The American chestnut tree (Castanea dentata) was once a dominant species in the Appalachian forests, making up an estimated 25% of the hardwood canopy. These majestic trees, which could grow over 100 feet tall and live for centuries, were a cornerstone of the ecosystem and a vital resource for both wildlife and human communities. However, the arrival of the chestnut blight in the early 20th century led to one of the most devastating ecological disasters in American history.

Introduction of the Blight

The chestnut blight is caused by the fungus Cryphonectria parasitica, which was inadvertently introduced to North America around 1904, likely through imported nursery stock from Asia. Unlike the American chestnut, Asian chestnut species had co-evolved with the fungus and developed a level of resistance. The American chestnuts, however, had no such defenses, making them highly susceptible to the disease.

Spread and Impact

The blight was first identified in the Bronx Zoo in New York City and spread rapidly through the eastern United States. The fungus enters the tree through wounds in the bark, creating cankers that girdle the tree and cut off the flow of nutrients and water. Within a few decades, the blight had killed an estimated 3.5 billion American chestnut trees across the Appalachian range and beyond.

Ecological Consequences

The loss of the American chestnut had profound ecological impacts. The trees were a crucial food source for wildlife, producing large quantities of nutritious nuts that fed bears, deer, squirrels, and numerous bird species. Their rapid decline disrupted these food chains and altered forest dynamics.

Additionally, the American chestnut’s rot-resistant wood was highly valued for construction, furniture, and tannin production. Its sudden absence forced communities to find alternative materials and economic activities, often with significant hardship.

Efforts at Restoration

In response to this catastrophe, various efforts have been undertaken to restore the American chestnut to its former glory. The most promising approaches involve cross-breeding with blight-resistant Asian chestnuts, genetic engineering, and backcrossing methods to retain the American chestnut’s desirable characteristics while incorporating disease resistance.

Organizations such as The American Chestnut Foundation have been at the forefront of these restoration efforts. They have developed hybrid trees with increased resistance to the blight and are working to reintroduce these hybrids into the wild.

Conclusion

The chestnut blight transformed the Appalachian forests and had a lasting impact on the region’s ecology and economy. While the American chestnut as it once existed has been largely lost, ongoing scientific efforts offer hope that this iconic tree may one day reclaim its place in the Appalachian landscape. The legacy of the chestnut blight serves as a poignant reminder of the vulnerability of ecosystems to introduced diseases and the importance of preserving biodiversity.