“In the West Virginia hills there must be ten thousand stills And they found the biggest one outside of Bluefield. A little peaceful country town, nothing else for miles around, I saw whiskey run like water down through Bluefield” I can thank my dad for causing me to think of that old Stonewall Jackson song almost every time I roll past the Mercer County line into Bluefield, WV.

Our travel itinerary took us into Bluefield for a visit to “nature’s air-conditioned city, where the summer spends the winter.” The city earned the nickname of “Air-Conditioned City” for the historically mild summer temperatures. Beginning in 1938 and continuing forward, the Chamber of Commerce has given out free lemonade on days that the temperature crosses over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. I guess this history alone would make Bluefield a pretty cool town to visit (feel free to groan at that one) but there’s more to the story.

The foundation for what would become Bluefield began in the 18th century when two families, the Davidsons and Baileys, settled in the area and built a fort along Bluestone River. In 1882, the families sold a good amount of their land as Captain John Fields began building what would become the Norfolk and Western Railway. Norfolk and Western would be a large benefactor of the coal boom in the 1890s and early 1900s and Bluefield would become the local hub.

The bituminous coal of the Pocahontas Coal Fields were considered by many to be the finest in the country during this time and the only way to transport it was by railroad. Like many surrounding communities, Bluefield’s population exploded during the coal boom growing from 1,775 people in 1890 to 21,506 people at the peak in 1950.

The rail yard was the main driver of this growth and the city grew with the fortunes of the Norfolk and Western Railroad. Houses and businesses sprung up all over the city in the early 20th century with demand was so large that you can still see the large houses built on tiny lots all crowded together. The city became among the first in the world to have large high-rise buildings and was nicknamed a “Little New York” for the activity and ethnic diversity.

Bluefield became full of shops and an active nightlife that seemed destined to make it someday rival Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. It was not meant to be as the Great Depression came along in the 1930s and almost wiped out the city financially. A series of fires in the downtown area burned down much of the high-rise buildings during this same time period.

Bluefield had a resurgence around the start of World War II as coal was in much demand to make steel which was vital for the war effort. In fact, the importance of Bluefield rose so greatly that it was rumored a target of Adolf Hitler’s Third Reich in Germany on their hit list for an air raid by the Luftwaffe. Emergency drills were conducted during this time to have the city prepared in the event of an air strike.

The end of World War II and the continued shrinking of dependence on rail traffic led to a decline in the fortunes of Norfolk and Western which put the squeeze on Bluefield. Amtrak closed its Bluefield station during the 1980s further dampening the local economy.

The population of Bluefield began to decline in the 1960s and has continued to drop through the census of 2010 to a population of 10,447. I worked at the Mercer Mall in Bluefield in the 1990s and the future at that time looked very bleak as the downtown area was riddled with empty, dilapidated buildings. Housing was also in soft demand resulting in rock bottom prices for real estate locally. At that time, I didn’t hold much hope for a rebound and expected Bluefield to potentially turn into a ghost town.

I was happy to see on this trip that many of the buildings in the worst condition have been leveled. There has also been a concerted effort to beautify the downtown district by having murals painted and adding other artistic and landscape additions. Bluefield is most certainly still in a state of transition but what looked impossible at one time looks very possible now. The area is accentuating their historical aspects such as the 12-story tall former West Virginian Hotel, which is still intact and used as the West Virginia Manor Home.

They also have a section dedicated to telling the history of the town at a park which has been constructed in an area that once was home to some of the worst buildings. The old city hall building has been converted into an arts-friendly structure and their are several antique stores in the area. Bluefield still has work to do but they’ve definitely come a long way in resuscitating this vital city in Appalachia.

The Internment Camp at Hot Springs, North Carolina

During World War I, Hot Springs, North Carolina, was the site of an internment camp for German civilians, an often-overlooked chapter of American history. This internment camp, located in a small mountain town in Madison County, housed German nationals who were in the United States when the war broke out. The camp’s story provides insight into the complexities of wartime policies and the impact on individuals caught in the conflict.

Background

At the onset of World War I in 1914, the United States maintained a position of neutrality. However, when the U.S. entered the war in April 1917, the government began to take measures against potential enemy nationals living within its borders. This included the internment of German citizens, who were considered enemy aliens.

The internment policy targeted German nationals who were either residing in the U.S. or caught in the country when the war began. Many of these individuals were merchant sailors, businessmen, or tourists who suddenly found themselves detained far from home.

Establishment of the Camp

The internment camp at Hot Springs was established in the spring of 1917. The site chosen for the camp was the Mountain Park Hotel, a luxurious resort known for its therapeutic hot springs. The hotel’s spacious grounds and existing facilities made it an ideal location for housing a large number of internees.

By May 1917, the first group of German internees arrived at Hot Springs. The number of internees varied over time, but at its peak, the camp housed around 2,500 individuals. These included crew members from German merchant ships seized in American ports, as well as other German nationals deemed a threat to national security.

Life in the Camp

Life in the internment camp was relatively structured and regulated. The internees were housed in the hotel and additional barracks constructed on the grounds. Despite being detained, they were provided with basic necessities, including food, medical care, and recreational activities.

The internees formed a self-contained community within the camp. They organized sports teams, orchestras, and theatrical performances to pass the time and maintain morale. The camp even had its own newspaper, the “Hot Springs Echo,” which was written and published by the internees.

While the conditions at the Hot Springs camp were generally better than those in many other internment facilities, there were still challenges. The internees faced uncertainty about their futures and the strain of being separated from their families and homeland. Communication with the outside world was limited, and there were occasional tensions between the internees and the guards.

Impact on Hot Springs

The presence of the internment camp had a significant impact on the small town of Hot Springs. The local economy benefited from the influx of government funds used to operate the camp. Local businesses provided goods and services to the camp, and many residents found employment there.

However, the camp also brought a degree of unease to the town. The internment of German nationals, some of whom had been well-respected members of the community, created an atmosphere of suspicion and fear. Additionally, the transformation of a beloved resort into a wartime internment facility was a stark reminder of the global conflict.

Closure and Legacy

The internment camp at Hot Springs operated until the end of World War I. In November 1918, following the Armistice, plans were made to repatriate the internees. By early 1919, most of the German nationals had been sent back to Germany or released under specific conditions.

The Mountain Park Hotel eventually resumed its role as a resort, but the internment camp left a lasting legacy in Hot Springs. The memory of the camp and the experiences of the internees are preserved through local history efforts and the stories passed down by residents.

Today, the story of the Hot Springs internment camp is a poignant reminder of a complex period in American history. It highlights the challenges faced by those caught in the crossfire of international conflict and the ways in which communities adapt to extraordinary circumstances. The internment camp’s history also serves as a testament to the resilience and resourcefulness of the internees who sought to create a semblance of normalcy in a time of upheaval.

Waynesville, North Carolina: A Historical and Cultural Biography

Nestled in the heart of the Great Smoky Mountains, Waynesville, North Carolina, is a charming town rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. As the largest town in Haywood County, Waynesville serves as a gateway to the majestic landscapes of western North Carolina and offers a vibrant community with deep-rooted traditions and a welcoming atmosphere. As of the last census, Waynesville had a population of 9,869, making it the largest town west of Asheville in North Carolina.

Early History and Founding

The area now known as Waynesville has a history that dates back to the early 19th century. It was founded by Colonel Robert Love, a Revolutionary War soldier who played a significant role in the development of western North Carolina. In 1810, Love donated land for the establishment of the town, which was named in honor of General “Mad” Anthony Wayne, a famed military leader from the Revolutionary War.

Waynesville’s early growth was spurred by its strategic location along major trading routes and its proximity to natural resources. The town quickly became a center for agriculture, particularly known for its production of corn, tobacco, and livestock. The arrival of the railroad in the late 19th century further boosted Waynesville’s development, making it more accessible and encouraging tourism and commerce.

The Civil War and Reconstruction

During the Civil War, Waynesville and the surrounding region experienced significant turmoil. The town saw its fair share of conflict, including the skirmish known as the Battle of Waynesville in 1865, which was one of the last engagements of the Civil War. After the war, Waynesville, like much of the South, faced the challenges of Reconstruction. Despite these difficulties, the town slowly rebuilt and continued to grow.

Tourism and the Arts

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Waynesville began to emerge as a popular destination for tourists seeking the restorative qualities of the mountain air and the beauty of the Smoky Mountains. The establishment of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in 1934 further cemented Waynesville’s status as a hub for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The town’s picturesque setting and vibrant community also attracted artists, musicians, and writers, contributing to a flourishing cultural scene. Waynesville became known for its arts and crafts, with numerous galleries and studios showcasing the work of local artisans. The annual Folkmoot USA, an international folk festival held in Waynesville, celebrates this cultural diversity and attracts performers and visitors from around the world.

Modern Waynesville

Today, Waynesville is a thriving community that honors its rich history while embracing modernity. The town’s historic downtown area, with its well-preserved architecture and quaint shops, offers a glimpse into the past while providing a vibrant space for contemporary commerce and social gatherings.

Waynesville’s economy has diversified over the years, with tourism, agriculture, and small businesses forming the backbone of the local economy. The town is also home to a growing number of retirees and newcomers drawn by its scenic beauty, mild climate, and welcoming community.

Natural Beauty and Outdoor Activities

One of Waynesville’s greatest assets is its proximity to some of the most stunning natural landscapes in the United States. The town is situated near the Blue Ridge Parkway, offering residents and visitors easy access to hiking, biking, and scenic drives. The Pisgah National Forest and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park provide endless opportunities for outdoor recreation, including camping, fishing, and wildlife observation.

Lake Junaluska, a serene man-made lake located just outside of Waynesville, is another popular destination. It offers a variety of recreational activities, including boating, fishing, and walking along the picturesque lakeside trails.

Community and Education

Waynesville is known for its strong sense of community and commitment to education. The town is served by the Haywood County School District, which provides quality education to local children. Additionally, the Haywood Community College offers higher education opportunities and workforce development programs, supporting the town’s economic growth and providing residents with valuable skills and training.

The community spirit in Waynesville is evident in its numerous festivals, events, and community initiatives. The Apple Harvest Festival, held annually in downtown Waynesville, celebrates the region’s agricultural heritage and attracts thousands of visitors. The town also hosts regular farmers markets, art shows, and music festivals, fostering a vibrant and connected community.

Preserving Heritage

Waynesville takes great pride in preserving its historical heritage. The Museum of North Carolina Handicrafts, located in the historic Shelton House, showcases traditional crafts and artifacts, highlighting the region’s cultural history. The town’s historic preservation efforts ensure that the charm and character of Waynesville are maintained for future generations to enjoy.

Conclusion

Waynesville, North Carolina, is a town where history, culture, and natural beauty converge. From its early days as a frontier settlement to its present status as a vibrant community, Waynesville has retained its unique charm and welcoming spirit. Whether exploring the scenic landscapes, enjoying the rich cultural offerings, or simply strolling through the historic downtown, visitors and residents alike can appreciate the special qualities that make Waynesville a beloved destination in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains.

Biography of Grace Moore: Tennessee’s Nightingale

Grace Moore, known as the “Tennessee Nightingale,” was a renowned American opera singer and actress who captivated audiences with her powerful voice and charismatic presence. Born on December 5, 1898, in Slabtown, Tennessee, Moore rose from humble beginnings to become one of the most celebrated sopranos of her time. Her life story is a testament to talent, determination, and the pursuit of artistic excellence.

Early Life

Mary Willie Grace Moore was born to Richard Lawson Moore and Jane Stokely Moore. She grew up in a modest household in Del Rio, a small community in Cocke County, Tennessee. From an early age, Moore exhibited a natural talent for music, often singing in her church choir and at local gatherings. Her early exposure to gospel and folk music would lay the foundation for her future career.

The Moore family moved to Jellico, Tennessee, when Grace was a child. It was in Jellico that her musical abilities began to garner attention. Recognizing her potential, her family supported her pursuit of a formal music education. She attended the Ward-Belmont College in Nashville, a prestigious institution known for its strong emphasis on the arts.

Pursuing a Dream

In 1920, Grace Moore moved to New York City to further her musical education and pursue a career in opera. She studied under several prominent voice teachers, honing her craft and expanding her repertoire. Her determination paid off when she made her professional debut in 1928 as a soprano with the Metropolitan Opera, one of the most esteemed opera companies in the world.

Moore’s debut role was that of Mimi in Giacomo Puccini’s “La Bohème.” Her performance was met with critical acclaim, and she quickly established herself as a leading soprano. Her powerful voice, combined with her emotive acting, set her apart from her contemporaries. Audiences were captivated by her ability to convey deep emotion through her singing, and she became a favorite among opera enthusiasts.

Hollywood and Stardom

In addition to her success on the opera stage, Grace Moore ventured into the world of film. The burgeoning film industry offered her an opportunity to reach a broader audience and showcase her talent in a new medium. In 1930, she signed a contract with MGM and made her film debut in “A Lady’s Morals,” where she portrayed the legendary opera singer Jenny Lind.

Moore’s transition to Hollywood was seamless, and she became one of the few opera singers to achieve significant success in both opera and film. Her most famous movie, “One Night of Love” (1934), earned her an Academy Award nomination for Best Actress. The film featured several operatic arias, and Moore’s performances were praised for their authenticity and emotional depth.

Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, Moore continued to balance her opera and film careers. She appeared in several successful films, including “Love Me Forever” (1935) and “The King Steps Out” (1936). Her roles often highlighted her vocal prowess and brought opera to a wider audience, contributing to the popularization of classical music in America.

International Fame

Grace Moore’s talent and charisma were not confined to the United States. She enjoyed a successful international career, performing in major opera houses and concert halls across Europe. Her performances in Paris, London, and Milan solidified her reputation as a world-class soprano. She was particularly admired for her interpretations of Puccini and Verdi roles, and her recordings were widely praised.

During World War II, Moore used her fame to support the Allied war effort. She performed for troops and participated in fundraising events, earning admiration for her patriotism and dedication. Her efforts during the war further endeared her to audiences and showcased her generosity and compassion.

Personal Life

Grace Moore married Spanish actor and film director Valentín Parera in 1931. The couple met while working on a film in Hollywood, and their marriage was a union of two artistic talents. Despite the demands of their careers, they maintained a strong and supportive relationship. Parera often accompanied Moore on her international tours, and the couple’s partnership was marked by mutual respect and admiration.

Moore’s personal life was characterized by her humility and connection to her roots. Despite her fame and success, she remained deeply connected to her family and her hometown in Tennessee. She frequently returned to Jellico and Del Rio, where she supported local arts initiatives and inspired young musicians.

Tragic End and Legacy

Grace Moore’s life was tragically cut short on January 26, 1947, when she died in a plane crash near Copenhagen, Denmark. She was en route to Sweden for a series of performances when the accident occurred. Her untimely death shocked the world and left a void in the hearts of her fans and colleagues.

In the years following her death, Moore’s legacy has endured. She is remembered not only for her remarkable voice and contributions to opera and film but also for her pioneering role in bridging classical music and popular culture. Her recordings continue to be celebrated, and her story inspires aspiring musicians.

The Tennessee Nightingale, as she was affectionately known, remains a symbol of artistic excellence and perseverance. Grace Moore’s journey from a small town in Tennessee to the world’s grandest stages is a testament to the power of talent, hard work, and the enduring appeal of music.

“It’s the worst thing that’s ever happened in Floyd County…the very worst thing.”

The above quote was from Josephine Fields, a resident of Floyd County, KY, to describe one of the worst tragedies in Appalachian history. February 28th will mark the 66th anniversary of the Prestonsburg school bus disaster. Sixty-six years may sound like a long time but for those who remember the tragedy there is a pain that is still vivid.

February 28, 1958, began like a lot of days this time of year in Prestonsburg as it was cold, cloudy and had been raining heavily the night before. The Floyd County No. 27 bus made its normal rounds eventually loading up 48 elementary and high school kids headed for their classes. The day seemed average and typical with kids aboard doing what children do on their way to school – some were talking, laughing and joking, some were still sleepy from the early morning hour, others were sitting quietly just waiting to get to school – no one saw how this day would turn so tragic in the blink of an eye.

Bus 27 was making its way down U.S. Route 23 when up ahead there was a wrecker attempting to pull out a pickup truck which had gotten stuck in a ditch. The driver of the bus, John Alex DeRossett, reportedly never slowed down as bus 27 plowed into the rear of the wrecker. The impact of the collision caused the school bus to take a hard left sending it down a 50-foot embankment into the rain-swollen Levisa Fork of the Big Sandy River. DeRossett is thought to have been instantly knocked unconscious leaving the children to fend for themselves. The bus initially sat bobbing on top of the river as it rapidly began to fill with water allowing some children to escape out windows and the rear emergency door.

Survivors described the horrific scene of brothers and sisters frantically searching for each other on the bus. A few small children hugged up to each other paralyzed by fear and uncertain of what to do. More and more children jumped into the fast-moving current of the river as rushing water continued to fill the bus. Children were seen grabbing on to tree branches, holding on for dear life, as others were left flailing in the water, unable to swim as the powerful current began to sweep them away one by one. One of the most heartbreaking descriptions was a witness who spoke of seeing little hands and arms reaching out the windows of the bus in a desperate grasp for a rescuer that never came. The bus soon disappeared completely submerged under the waters of the Big Sandy River. The headcount of survivors stood at 22 meaning that 26 children and the bus driver were still missing.

Volunteer rescuers came in droves in an attempt to locate any additional survivors but the bus was nowhere to be found. Hours turned into days as the Kentucky National Guard and local volunteers worked around the clock to locate the missing bus. Finally, the bus was located by Navy divers some 250 yards from the point it entered the water when they spotted the body of one of the missing boys floating not far from the surface, as he had gotten stuck in a window of the bus when trying to escape. Bulldozers pulled the bus from the water an agonizingly long 53 hours after the wreck. The bus was filled with mud as aboard they found the body of DeRossett and 14 of the children leaving 12 children still unaccounted for. Nets were cast across the Big Sandy River several miles from the accident in an attempt to catch other bodies. Boats dragged the river day after day attempting to recover the unaccounted for missing children. Finally. the last body was found 69 days after the initial wreck almost three miles downstream from the accident giving a very small measure of closure to the grieving in Floyd County. The final death toll was 27 including the 27-year-old bus driver and the 26 school children ranging from 8 to 17 years of age. Four families lost two of their children and one family lost all three of their children to the tragedy.

The aftermath of the tragedy was a grim scene of funeral after funeral being held for the deceased. Each funeral touched off a new round of inconsolable, grieving families and friends mourning their lost loved ones. Many of the survivors of the wreck felt a sense of guilt for having survived while others perished, not an uncommon reaction to these types of tragedies. The emotional and psychological toll the tragedy took on those impacted is impossible to quantify.

Everyone was left with the question of why the accident happened – a question that has never been fully answered. Speculation of everything from the bus driver suffering a heart attack to the driver of the wrecker backing up into the bus all proved to be false. In any case, nothing will change what happened that fateful day that resulted in 27 lives taken way too soon. The town placed a monument in memory of the lost although it is not in the spot of the accident – the families preferred to not have a marker there. At the time it occurred, the Prestonsburg bus disaster was the deadliest in the history of the United States and is still in the top three worst in the nation’s history. Kentucky would suffer another equally deadly bus crash 30 years later with the Carrollton bus disaster that also killed 27 in 1988.

As any parent knows, the thought of losing a young child is unbearable and to lose two or more at the same time is incomprehensible. We all have to trust that when our kids are out of our care they are safely at school. The terror and agony experienced by the families in Floyd County is a sobering reminder that despite our best efforts we are all at the mercy of fate. I often hear parents complain when school is cancelled for weather on a day that ends up not being severe but you’ll never get that from me. I personally would much rather the school system be safe than sorry and I trust God to do the rest. I know reading about and researching this made me give my children a couple of extra long hugs this week. – Shane

*The Prestonsburg school bus disaster inspired a documentary entitled, “The Very Worst Thing” by Kentucky filmmaker Michael Crisp and two songs, “No School Bus in Heaven” by the Stanley Brothers and “The Tragedy of Bus 27” by Ralph Bowman.*

John Shell: The Legendary Kentuckian

John Shell, often referred to as “Uncle John,” is a legendary figure in Kentucky history. He is said to have been born on September 2, 1788, in Warren County, Tennessee or Clay County, Kentucky (depending on which source you believe), he lived to be one of the oldest people in the United States, claiming to have lived to the ripe old age of 134 years. His long life and the stories surrounding it have made him a captivating figure in the folklore of Appalachia. Neither his birthdate nor his birthplace have ever been conclusively proven.

Early Life

John Shell’s early years were spent in the rugged, mountainous terrain of Appalachia, a region known for its isolation and self-reliant communities. The exact details of his early life are somewhat murky, as records from that time are sparse, and much of what we know comes from oral histories and Shell’s own accounts. He once claimed in an interview that his earliest recollection was “the news coming over the mountains that the father of our country had died.”- which would have been in reference to George Washington, who passed away in 1799.

As a young man, Shell was known for his robust health, hard work, and skills as a woodsman and farmer. He married Elizabeth Chappell in 1844, and together they raised a large family. The Shell family was typical of the time, relying on farming, hunting, and gathering to sustain themselves.

A Centenarian Claims Super-Centenarian Status

John Shell’s fame began to spread in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when he was reportedly over 100 years old and still leading an active life. Shell’s longevity was documented in various newspapers and magazines, and his age became a topic of fascination. By the early 1900s, he was widely recognized as one of the oldest living people in the United States, with claims that he had surpassed the age of 130.

One of the most significant moments in John Shell’s life came in 1919 when he was featured in “The Saturday Evening Post.” The article, written by Lucille J. Crittenden, brought national attention to Shell’s extraordinary age and lifestyle. The piece described Shell as a vigorous man who, despite his advanced years, still chopped wood, tended to his farm, and enjoyed walking in the mountains.

The Shell Homeplace

The Shell homeplace, located in Leslie County, Kentucky, became a popular site for visitors eager to meet the legendary centenarian. People traveled from all over the country to see if the stories of his longevity were true. Many visitors were struck by Shell’s vitality and sharp mind, noting that he did not seem as old as his claimed age would suggest.

The homeplace itself was a testament to Appalachian ingenuity and self-sufficiency. The Shell family lived in a log cabin that John had built himself, surrounded by gardens and fields that provided much of their food. The property also featured various outbuildings, including a blacksmith shop and a smokehouse, reflecting the skills and resources necessary for survival in the mountains.

Skepticism and Legend

While many people were fascinated by Shell’s claims of extreme old age, there were also skeptics. Birth records from the late 18th century were often unreliable or non-existent, making it difficult to verify Shell’s age definitively. Some historians and genealogists have suggested that Shell’s true age may have been exaggerated, either through honest error or deliberate embellishment. Many speculate that his actual birth year would have been between 1805-1810.

Despite the skepticism, John Shell remained a beloved figure in Kentucky folklore. His story encapsulates the rugged individualism and resilience of the Appalachian people. Whether he was truly 134 years old or not, Shell’s life was marked by hard work, self-reliance, and a deep connection to the land.

Legacy

John Shell passed away on July 5, 1922. By then, he had become a symbol of longevity and the enduring spirit of the Appalachian people. His life story continues to be celebrated in Kentucky, with various landmarks and events commemorating his legacy.

In modern times, the legend of John Shell serves as a reminder of the rich oral traditions and cultural heritage of Appalachia. His story is told and retold, blending fact and folklore in a way that keeps his memory alive. The exact truth of his age may never be known, but John Shell’s place in the annals of Appalachian history is secure. His life is a testament to the enduring fascination with longevity and the human capacity to thrive in even the most challenging environments.

The Story Behind State Street in Bristol, Virginia/Tennessee

Bristol is a unique city, famously straddling the state line between Virginia and Tennessee. The boundary between the two states runs right down the middle of State Street, making this thoroughfare a central feature of the city’s identity and history. State Street is more than just a road; it symbolizes the unity and division of two states and holds a rich tapestry of cultural, historical, and musical significance.

A Tale of Two Cities

Bristol is actually two cities: Bristol, Virginia, and Bristol, Tennessee. The two cities operate independently, each with its own government, schools, and services. However, they share a common heritage and history, deeply intertwined by geography and community. State Street is the physical manifestation of this dual identity, with one side of the street in Virginia and the other in Tennessee.

The Early Years

Bristol’s origins date back to the early 19th century. The area that would become Bristol was originally part of a vast wilderness explored by pioneers. In 1852, a notable event set the stage for Bristol’s development: the construction of the Virginia and Tennessee Railroad. Joseph R. Anderson, a businessman and entrepreneur, saw potential in the area and founded the town of Bristol, Tennessee. Soon after, in 1856, another town, Goodson (later renamed Bristol, Virginia), was established on the Virginia side.

State Street naturally became the central artery connecting the two towns. Its placement along the state line made it a unique feature, drawing residents and businesses to settle along its path. The towns grew, largely due to the railroad, which brought commerce and travelers to the area.

State Street: The Heart of Bristol

As Bristol developed, State Street emerged as the main commercial and social hub. The street was lined with businesses, shops, and theaters, becoming a bustling center of activity. The architecture along State Street reflects the evolution of the city, with buildings dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, showcasing styles from Victorian to Art Deco.

State Street also played a crucial role during significant historical events. During the Civil War, the street witnessed the movement of troops and supplies, given its strategic location along the railroad. Post-war, the street became a symbol of recovery and growth as the community rebuilt and prospered.

The Birthplace of Country Music

One of the most significant chapters in State Street’s history is its association with country music. In 1927, the Bristol Sessions, often referred to as the “Big Bang of Country Music,” were recorded here. Talent scout Ralph Peer of the Victor Talking Machine Company set up a temporary studio on State Street and recorded local musicians, including the Carter Family and Jimmie Rodgers. These recordings are considered seminal in the development of country music, earning Bristol the title of the “Birthplace of Country Music.”

Today, the Birthplace of Country Music Museum, located near State Street, celebrates this rich musical heritage. The museum preserves and promotes the legacy of the Bristol Sessions and the cultural impact of country music.

A Street of Festivals and Celebrations

State Street is not only a historical landmark but also a venue for numerous festivals and events that celebrate the community’s heritage and culture. The annual Bristol Rhythm & Roots Reunion is a three-day music festival that draws thousands of visitors to State Street. This event features a diverse lineup of artists, paying homage to the city’s musical roots and bringing together people from both sides of the state line.

Throughout the year, State Street hosts parades, farmers’ markets, and community gatherings, reinforcing its role as the heart of the city. These events highlight the unique blend of Virginian and Tennessean cultures, fostering a sense of unity and shared identity among residents.

Modern-Day State Street

Today, State Street continues to be a vibrant and dynamic part of Bristol. The street is lined with an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, and businesses, attracting locals and tourists alike. Walking down State Street, one can experience the charm of historic buildings alongside modern amenities, a testament to the city’s ability to preserve its heritage while embracing the future.

The iconic sign that spans State Street at the intersection of State and Volunteer Parkway/Euclid Avenue reads, “Bristol: A Good Place to Live,” symbolizing the pride and sense of community that defines the city. This sign has become a beloved landmark, representing the spirit of Bristol and the unique bond between its two halves.

Conclusion

State Street in Bristol, Virginia/Tennessee, is more than just a road; it is a living narrative of a community that thrives on its unique duality. From its early days as a railroad town to its pivotal role in the birth of country music, State Street encapsulates the rich history and vibrant culture of Bristol. It stands as a testament to the power of unity and the shared heritage of two cities, making it a cherished landmark in the Appalachian region.

“Copperhead Road” by Steve Earle: A Song of Rebellion and Tradition

“Copperhead Road,” written and performed by Steve Earle, is a song that captures the rugged spirit and tumultuous history of the Appalachian region. Released in 1988 as the title track of Earle’s third studio album, “Copperhead Road” has become an anthem of rebellion and resilience, resonating deeply with listeners through its vivid storytelling and gritty sound.

The Song’s Narrative

The song unfolds in three distinct verses, each chronicling the life of a different member of the Pettimore family. The narrative spans three generations, painting a picture of a family caught in a cycle of illicit activities, reflective of the struggles and defiance that characterize much of Appalachian history.

1. First Generation: The song begins with the story of John Lee Pettimore, the protagonist’s grandfather, who was a moonshiner during Prohibition. Earle describes how John Lee ran illegal whiskey along Copperhead Road, a rural backroad notorious for its moonshine operations. The verse captures the danger and thrill of evading law enforcement, illustrating the lengths to which people went to survive during hard times.
2. Second Generation: The narrative then shifts to John Lee Pettimore’s son, who inherited the moonshining business. However, his life is cut short when federal agents discover and destroy his still, a fate not uncommon for many moonshiners during the crackdown on illegal distilleries.
3. Third Generation: The final verse tells the story of John Lee Pettimore III, a Vietnam War veteran. Returning home disillusioned and haunted by his experiences, he decides to grow marijuana in place of moonshine, continuing the family’s tradition of illicit activity. The song concludes with a sense of defiance, as the protagonist rigs his property with land mines to protect his new crop from the authorities.

The chorus, with its iconic line “You better stay away from Copperhead Road,” serves as a stark warning and a testament to the enduring legacy of rebellion and resistance in the Appalachian Mountains.

The Real Community Behind the Song

While “Copperhead Road” is a fictional story, it is deeply rooted in the real culture and history of the Appalachian region, particularly in parts of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Virginia. The song reflects the following aspects of this community:

1. Moonshining Heritage: Moonshining has a long history in Appalachia, dating back to the 18th century. The practice of distilling homemade liquor became widespread due to the isolation of the region and the economic necessity faced by its inhabitants. The rugged terrain and dense forests provided cover for these illegal operations, making moonshining a viable way of life for many families.
2. Prohibition and Federal Crackdowns: During Prohibition (1920-1933), moonshining flourished as legal alcohol production was banned. However, the subsequent crackdown by federal agents, known as “revenuers,” brought violence and tension to the region. The stories of moonshiners evading capture and sometimes facing fatal confrontations with law enforcement are a significant part of Appalachian folklore.
3. Vietnam War Impact: The Vietnam War had a profound impact on rural America, including the Appalachian region. Many young men from these communities were drafted and sent to fight in a distant, controversial conflict. Their return home was often fraught with difficulties, including reintegration into civilian life and coping with the psychological scars of war. The shift from moonshining to marijuana cultivation in the song symbolizes the changes and continuity in illegal enterprises as a means of survival.
4. Cultural Resilience: The Appalachian people are known for their resilience and independence. The song’s depiction of the Pettimore family’s determination to resist authority and continue their way of life, despite the risks, mirrors the real-life spirit of many Appalachian communities. This resilience is celebrated in the song and resonates with listeners who appreciate the strength and tenacity of these mountain folk.

Conclusion

“Copperhead Road” by Steve Earle is more than just a song; it is a powerful narrative that encapsulates the spirit of Appalachia. Through its vivid storytelling and raw, energetic sound, the song pays homage to the region’s history of moonshining, the impact of war, and the enduring resilience of its people. While the tale of the Pettimore family is fictional, it draws heavily on the real-life experiences and cultural heritage of the Appalachian community, making it a timeless anthem of rebellion and survival.

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project: Engineering Marvel and Community Transformation

Nestled in the heart of the Appalachian Mountains, Pikeville, Kentucky, is a town that proudly showcases a remarkable feat of engineering and urban planning: the Pikeville Cut-Through Project. This ambitious project, often heralded as one of the largest earth-moving endeavors in the Western Hemisphere, has not only transformed the town’s landscape but also revitalized its economy and infrastructure.

The Need for Change

Before the Cut-Through Project, Pikeville faced significant challenges that hindered its growth and development. The Levisa Fork of the Big Sandy River meandered through the town, causing frequent and devastating floods. The river’s serpentine path, coupled with the town’s location in a narrow valley, also limited space for expansion and posed ongoing risks to residents and businesses. The main rail line and U.S. Route 23 ran through the town, creating bottlenecks and hampering traffic flow.

Recognizing the urgent need for a solution, Dr. William Hambley, then mayor of Pikeville, envisioned an ambitious plan to relocate the river, the railroad, and the highway, effectively cutting through the mountain to create new space for the town’s growth. This vision, conceived in the late 1960s, would eventually lead to the groundbreaking Pikeville Cut-Through Project.

The Scope and Execution

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project officially commenced in November 1973. The monumental task involved the excavation of approximately 18 million cubic yards of earth and rock to create a three-quarter-mile-long cut through Peach Orchard Mountain. The project aimed to:

1. Divert the Levisa Fork River: The river was redirected through the cut, mitigating the flood risk and reclaiming valuable land for development.
2. Relocate the Railroad: The rail line was moved to run through the new cut, freeing the town from the disruptive presence of trains passing through its center.
3. Construct a New Highway: U.S. Route 23 was rerouted through the cut, alleviating traffic congestion and improving access to Pikeville.

The engineering challenges were immense, requiring careful planning and coordination. Blasting through solid rock, managing water flow, and ensuring the stability of the newly created slopes were critical components of the project. Despite these challenges, the project proceeded with remarkable efficiency, driven by the determination and collaboration of engineers, construction workers, and local leaders.

The Impact on Pikeville

Completed in 1987, the Pikeville Cut-Through Project fundamentally changed the town’s geography and opened up new possibilities for its future. The benefits of the project were multifaceted:

1. Flood Control: By diverting the river, the project effectively ended the cycle of destructive floods that had plagued Pikeville for decades. This not only protected existing properties but also made additional land available for development.
2. Economic Growth: With new land for expansion and improved transportation infrastructure, Pikeville experienced a surge in economic activity. Businesses thrived, and new opportunities emerged for commercial and residential development.
3. Improved Transportation: The relocation of the railroad and highway significantly improved traffic flow, making Pikeville more accessible and enhancing its appeal as a regional hub.
4. Enhanced Quality of Life: The project created new recreational areas, including parks and trails, fostering a greater sense of community and improving the overall quality of life for residents.

A Lasting Legacy

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project stands as a testament to human ingenuity and the power of visionary leadership. It has been widely recognized as one of the most significant civil engineering achievements in the United States. The project not only solved pressing environmental and logistical challenges but also laid the groundwork for Pikeville’s continued growth and prosperity.

Today, visitors to Pikeville can witness the scale of the Cut-Through by visiting overlooks and viewing areas that provide stunning vistas of the transformed landscape. The project is a source of pride for the community, symbolizing resilience, innovation, and the enduring spirit of the Appalachian people.

Conclusion

The Pikeville Cut-Through Project is more than just an engineering marvel; it is a story of transformation and hope. By reimagining the possibilities of their environment, the people of Pikeville turned a vision into reality, overcoming natural and logistical barriers to create a brighter future. The project continues to inspire and serve as a model for communities facing similar challenges, demonstrating that with determination and ingenuity, even the most daunting obstacles can be overcome.

You can watch a video from the overlook showing how the city looks these days here:

The Brookside Coal Strike: A Defining Moment in Harlan County, Kentucky

In the early 1970s, the rolling hills and coal-rich valleys of Harlan County, Kentucky, became the stage for a dramatic and pivotal labor struggle that would capture the nation’s attention. The Brookside Coal Strike, a fierce and often violent confrontation between miners and the Eastover Mining Company (a subsidiary of Duke Energy), highlighted the ongoing fight for workers’ rights, fair wages, and safe working conditions. Let’s take a closer look at this crucial chapter in labor history.

The Setting: Harlan County

Harlan County, nestled in the Appalachian Mountains, had long been synonymous with coal mining. The region’s rich coal seams attracted thousands of workers who labored under harsh and often dangerous conditions. For many families, mining was not just a job but a way of life, passed down through generations. However, this way of life came with significant hardships, including low wages, unsafe working conditions, and little job security.

The Spark: Contract Negotiations

The Brookside Mine, owned by the Eastover Mining Company, became the epicenter of the conflict in 1973. The miners, represented by the United Mine Workers of America (UMWA), were fighting for a new contract that would ensure better wages, improved safety standards, and greater job security. When negotiations stalled and Eastover refused to recognize the union, the miners voted to strike.

The Struggle: A Fight for Justice

The Brookside Strike was characterized by its intensity and the high stakes for both sides. Striking miners and their families faced immense challenges, including financial hardship, intimidation, and violence. Picket lines were established, and tensions quickly escalated as Eastover brought in replacement workers and sought to break the strike. The miners, determined to stand their ground, were supported by the broader community and labor activists from across the country.

Key Figures and Events

One of the most prominent figures in the strike was Florence Reece, a local activist and the wife of a union organizer. She became an enduring symbol of the labor movement, particularly through her song “Which Side Are You On?” which became an anthem for the striking miners. The song, originally written during an earlier Harlan County conflict in the 1930s, resonated deeply with the community and rallying support for the strike.

The conflict also saw tragic events, including violent clashes between miners and strikebreakers, resulting in injuries and fatalities. The strife reached a critical point when a gun battle erupted, leading to the death of miner Lawrence Jones, a tragedy that underscored the lethal seriousness of the struggle.

The Role of Media and Documentary

The Brookside Strike gained national attention through the work of filmmaker Barbara Kopple, who documented the conflict in her 1976 Oscar-winning film, “Harlan County, USA.” The documentary brought the miners’ plight into the living rooms of America, showcasing their resilience and the harsh realities of life in Harlan County. Kopple’s work was instrumental in galvanizing public support for the miners and highlighting the broader issues of labor rights and corporate power.

The Resolution and Legacy

The Brookside Strike officially ended in 1974 when Eastover Mining Company finally agreed to a contract recognizing the UMWA and addressing many of the miners’ demands. The resolution marked a significant victory for the labor movement, but the struggle left deep scars on the community. The Brookside Coal Strike of the 1970s remains a defining moment in the history of labor rights in the United States.

Surprisingly, these days there’s not a single working miner who is a member of the UMWA. It is quite a different time from the days of the Brookside Strike.